Beautiful fit starts with careful observation. Use a flexible tape, measure over light clothing and keep the tape level. It should sit comfortably against the body without pulling tight.

Record bust, waist and hip measurements separately. Tie a narrow ribbon around the natural waist as a reference. For garments with sleeves, also record shoulder width, arm length and upper-arm circumference. Recheck unusual readings rather than adjusting them by guesswork.

Body measurements and finished garment measurements are different. Wearing ease allows movement, while design ease creates the silhouette. Decide how much of each the garment needs before drafting.

Test your pattern in an inexpensive fabric with a similar weight and stretch to the final fabric. Mark the grainline, darts and balance points clearly. A test garment is an opportunity to correct the pattern before cutting into something precious.

For fitted bodices and supportive garments, explore the Bustier and Corset Masterclass. Ask Gracy about the tools and prior knowledge required before enrolling.